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This post 60s lax attitude that swimming in your suit feels comfortable and feeling comfortable is great, is likely an attitude that marked the beginning of the end of esteem in American suiting. If you asked an American man at this time to try on a suit that gave him an hour glass silhouette, you would likely feel his deep embarrassment from across the room upon the very thought of your request. Possibly without realizing that their preference was being driven by sheer availability, American men soon came to believe that oversized suits looked good and to the delight of mass manufacturers, would wince in disdain at any suit style deviating from the sack suit or at best, the more progressive drape suit. Of course, mass production adopted the sack suit design precisely because of its blatant lack of shape and ''loose-fit parameters'' that made the suit easy to produce in high volume. Since the Industrial Revolution, legions of shapeless sack suits have been produced in the U.S. Originated by Brooks Brothers in its heyday, the Sack first found favor with Ivy Leaguers in the 1920s, when it was considered fine for college kids but inappropriate on grown men, who, when they got to Wall Street, were expected to dress with more rigor.
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The trousers of a Sack suit are always unpleated, uncuffed, sit on the hips, and hang straight, effecting the look of an accountant or math teacher. The first mass-produced silhouette, it was designed to fit anyone, with enourmous armholes, because those with slight shoulders can fit into large scyes but not the reverse. It has no padding, no darts, no waist suppression but hangs straight from the shoulders. The Sack, which is.a useless silhouette, is wholly unstructured and unfitted. With no offense to math teachers or accountants (as both professions have been of a great personal benefit), Antongiavanni, in The Suit, does not hold back in his scathing review of the Sack Suit: Specifically, the sack suit did America no favors in the eyes of the world as sack suits seemed synonymous with mass-manufactured shapeless jackets where any given gentleman could lose or gain 30 pounds with little consequence in terms of having to change his suit size. ~ Gay Talese (1)īut even with these sound words, the consideration of American tailoring feels allusive, especially when compared to British, Italian, and French tailoring. If bespoke is out of your budget, I would recommend buying off-the-rack and then getting them tailored. The drape and fit of a fine bespoke suit will pay for itself many times over after your fashionable high street ones have gone out of fashion. espouse the importance of investing in quality-if you get something well cut and well made, it not only lasts longer but also withstands the vagaries of the fashion cycle. Years later (after practically being born in a suit), he tells us: Growing up in Ocean City, New Jersey, with an Italian father who worked as a tailor, Talese even wore handmade suits to grade school. Army, and not long after after his return from service, would find himself writing feature articles for Esquire Magazine. The following year he would be drafted into the U.S. Photo credit: Steffen Roth GAY TALESE: FINE AND DANDYĪs a young copy boy in 1953, Gay Talese showed up for work each day at the New York Times office wearing a hand stitched Italian suit.